I spent the weekend processing some standing cedar and elm wood. I thickness planed it down to the 3/4″ that I need for making sticks. I then made the sticks. What is fascinating to me is how bad these woods are to work with! Elm has a peculiar smell to it and has a very curvy grain pattern, so it is very difficult to know ahead of time whether the bevel cut I do is going to pinch or spread as I cut it. The standing cedar likewise has internal stress and I found that if the stick I process should be about 8″ in length or less, it binds too much and might kick back in a very unsafe manner.
Here is a couple shots of the puzzle I made for Matt Cremona. The pieces are walnut with an alder base. The base I made is unique in that I turned the puzzle base into a packing style puzzle. I think this makes it even more aggravating to solve! Check his work out at YouTube – https://www.youtube.com/user/mcremona and his website: mattcremona.com
Some of the things I would differently is that the drawers are a little deep and too tall. I think that after I load them up with typical items that belong to a drill press cart the drawers might end up being too heavy. So ideally the drawers should be at most 7″ tall and maybe put drawers in from both sides while using the rear drawers for more permanent storage (all those things that I never use and should probably get rid of) and place the diagonal cross member in the middle making the drawers about 13″ deep. It would be nice if two of the front casters would lock in place so the cart does not wander around at all when I am using it.
The drill press I placed on top is a Dayton 3Z993C with a RJ33A-13L chuck. The drill press comes in at around 110 lbs. I have no qualms with placing 300+ lbs on the cart.
I will add some more picture soon of the project on the way to completion along with the completed version. Let me know if you have any questions!
I got the inspiration for this build from when Nick Ferry on YouTube had a shop organization project using the Harbor Freight parts bin storage units.
I did not have any vertical wall space to use and I felt that having to reach a little higher if they were in a stacked manner would not be convenient. Furthermore, the white wire shelf that I replaced always had the brackets in the way and never really was good at keeping somewhat unstable footprint items from falling.
Here is the finished product. I just need to spend some time labeling the parts bin so I don’t waste any time searching for the right bin.
The way I am going to label them is much easier than Nick’s method. I think he would appreciate it since he has a background in theater work. It is gaffer’s tape. The kind I have has an extremely strong adhesive with a cloth surface that a Sharpy really takes well to.
Finally got around to figuring out how to bend my own steel shims for my table saw. I had read on some forum where many have had success using brass shim stock from their local hardware store. I thought that this was a brilliant idea but I thought that the brass stock would be too malleable and not allow for proper arbor alignment as the set screws would wear through fairly quickly.
I first created a jig where I could maximize material usage by allowing me to precisely cut stock to the final length of the shim, then to be able to cut the strips to the exact overall width of the shim so that it could be bent exactly to the dimensions needed. I think the pictures below are self explanatory.
Place the sheet into the jig and score along the outer line formed by the outer aluminum bar.Here is the score line madeGently bend along the score line. Bend a little bit back and forth THe small segment separates Turn the sheet 90 degrees and insert back into the jig and score along the outer edge of the inner aluminum bar gently fold along the seam the strip will break off keep doing this until you are unable to break off anymore. Here the strip to break off is too small so we need to do something different Place the thin strip in between two pieces of wood so as to be able to grip it well and bend off the short strip fold it gently here it has released using the same jig to bend off the small strip, insert the hinge with a spacer to get an accurate bend (your setup might vary from this) place the strip clamp it down bend the brass piano hinge segment over. You might want to lightly tap the hinge with a hammer to ensure the 90 is as good as you can get it Then place the bent shim into a jig so you can bend the ears over. Carefuly place it so you get an equal amount of material sticking up from each end cut a slit in the corner using a utility knife. Be careful to get into the corner as far as possible slowly roll the utility knife over until. use some solid piece of metal to help bend over the ear in a uniform manner Fold over the other ear and repeat for the other end Repeat for other side
First off I would like to thank the author of http://bt3000.com/ along with the wonderful descriptions of alignment of this great table saw. I especially like the “permanent” solution he has for his shims. He simply glues them into place! It is genius and have done it myself and am very impressed with the ease with which the saw raises and lowers the blade.
I did have to resort to buying a saw for parts to replace my shims since they were mangled beyond the ability to be glued in place. Nowhere was I able to find these: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/shim-p-149355.html
I am going to attempt to bend my own so I can rescue the saw I bought for parts. Stay tuned, I might be able to sell you my fabricated version.
Using google I came across midweststeelsupply.com. This seems to be a very reasonably priced source with reasonable shipping for what I need to remake my puzzle jigs in aluminum to increase accuracy and repeat-ability.
I will be ordering from them as soon as I can get my table saw shims replaced and dialed in.