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Finished puzzles in elm and standing cedar

This weekend I had the opportunity to create two puzzles with wood I haven’t used yet. The elm was quite challenging as stress was released as I cut the wood. The grain pattern tends to pinch the blade when making sticks or it wants to veer off away from the blade. I overcame this tendency by cutting shorter sticks. The standing cedar was even more stress ridden. I’ve had it drying in 1 1/4″ boards about 4 inches wide and about 1′ long for a year.  When I first planed them they immediately bowed. Thankfully, the small pieces that I ended up using did not exhibit any twisting or bowing; a good portent for the fruit woods!

 

Notice the stark difference between sanded and finished puzzles. I always find it very rewarding to see!


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Final figured (in the last year) how to make the cuts needed to make the puzzles…

Final figured (in the last year) how to make the cuts needed to make the puzzles I am now selling on my website. Check them out at http://www.HallCastle.com

Tim

Reshared post from +Hall Castle (HallCastlePuzzles)

This weekend I spent some time gluing some walnut puzzle pieces, alder bases, and poplar bases (new wood choice). Next up, sanding the bases. This 5” random orbital sander has made my life so much easier when it comes to sanding! I’ve found that the 220 grit offers the most flexibility. The 220 grit is all I need for coarse and fine work. Once the incessant sanding was done, I wiped all the sawdust off and applied Danish Oil Finish.

I also created an enclosed alder base that I think makes the puzzle even more challenging. You have to place the pieces in order since they can’t be slid in from the side like with the open base.

#woodworking
#brainteaser
#puzzle

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Replenished some puzzle stock and a new base!

This weekend I spent some time gluing some walnut puzzle pieces, alder bases, and poplar bases (new wood choice). Next up, sanding the bases. This Makita 5” random orbital sander has made my life so much easier when it comes to sanding!  I’ve found that the Diablo 50-piece pack with a 220 grit offers the most flexibility.  The 220 grit is all I need for coarse and fine work.  Once the incessant sanding was done, I wiped all the sawdust off and applied Rust-Oleum Danish Oil Finish.


I also created an enclosed alder base that I think makes the puzzle even more challenging. You have to place the pieces in order since they can’t be slid in from the side like with the open base.


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BT3000 Shim from stainless steel stock

I purchased a Baileigh brake/shear so that I could manufacture stainless steel shims for the BT3000. After taking the time to dial in the perfect settings I made some fixed gauges for the various depths of cut and bend needed for repeat-ability. I’ll update this with some pictures soon.

I am selling them here on my website (cost saving compared to EBay) and on EBay.I also sell a complete set here on my website and on Ebay.

Save your Ryobi BT3000 table saw! Replace the shims so the arbor raises and lowers with ease again. These shims are made from 302 stainless steel which are rust resistant and very durable. Order 2 if you would like to replace both shims.

Manufactured with a Shear/Brake to ensure precision.  There is no waviness or rough edges to the shims, and they seat nicely.

 

  • 0.008″ THICK ALLOY 302 FULL HARD TEMPER STAINLESS STEEL (18/8 CHROME-NICKEL) HARDNESS: ROCKWELL C 40-45

Here is a graphic which shows all of the locations I have shipped shims to:

Pin Map

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Processing new wood

I spent the weekend processing some standing cedar and elm wood. I thickness planed it down to the 3/4″ that I need for making sticks. I then made the sticks. What is fascinating to me is how bad these woods are to work with! Elm has a peculiar smell to it and has a very curvy grain pattern, so it is very difficult to know ahead of time whether the bevel cut I do is going to pinch or spread as I cut it. The standing cedar likewise has internal stress and I found that if the stick I process should be about 8″ in length or less, it binds too much and might kick back in a very unsafe manner.

 

 

Initial bevel cut made
Cedar board about to be bevel cut

Elm and cedar sticks made

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Rhoma Variant with custom base. Matt Cremona logo

Here is a couple shots of the puzzle I made for Matt Cremona. The pieces are walnut with an alder base. The base I made is unique in that I turned the puzzle base into a packing style puzzle. I think this makes it even more aggravating to solve! Check his work out at YouTube – https://www.youtube.com/user/mcremona and his website: mattcremona.com

Matt’s Weekly shop update.

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Assembled
Disassembled
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Drill Press shop cart

Sketchup
Sketchup 7 project file

Based upon Michael Olson’s  “Heavy Duty Mobile Cart from 2×4’s”   I made my own heavy duty cart with half-lap joints much like his, enough so that I thought I should attribute his video as a source of inspiration. Furthermore, I put together a sketchup file for the project. For the wheels I took apart a Harbor Freight furniture dolly.

Some of the things I would differently is that the drawers are a little deep and too tall. I think that after I load them up with typical items that belong to a drill press cart the drawers might end up being too heavy. So ideally the drawers should be at most 7″ tall and maybe put drawers in from both sides while using the rear drawers for more permanent storage (all those things that I never use and should probably get rid of) and place the diagonal cross member in the middle making the drawers about 13″ deep. It would be nice if two of the front casters would lock in place so the cart does not wander around at all when I am using it.
The drill press I placed on top is a Dayton 3Z993C with a RJ33A-13L chuck. The drill press comes in at around 110 lbs. I have no qualms with placing 300+ lbs on the cart.

Half way there

I will add some more picture soon of the project on the way to completion along with the completed version. Let me know if you have any questions!

Here is the finished cart: