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Helpful tips for replacing your shims on your BT3000

Here is a video I put together to help with replacing the shims.

The best advice I can give is to take the riving knife off, take the rails off altogether, turn over the assembly onto a towel or cardboard box, flip the saw over on it’s top onto some cardboard, remove the side panels, remove the back panel, dust cover, and then you should have enough access to the screws and guide holder. I would stay away from using power tools for the rest of the assembly. The screw heads seem to be softer than I would expect so be careful not to strip them.

For good measure pick up a couple spare: don’t ask me why I know!

8-32 X ¾” Pan head Machine screw.

10-24 x 1” Pan head Machine screw.

To avoid much frustration when it comes time to get the shims to stay put as you are assembling it I suggest using painter’s tape on the top tabs of each flat shim and both top and bottom for the angled shims. The material I have made the shims out of is, in my opinion, more resilient so you should not see the problem happen again where the shim will eventually drop out.

See the video for placing the shims frustration free. Tighten down the screws slowly, be patient. Once the bearing is seated all the way in the bracket you can then place the smaller screws into the black bearing holder plate with little frustration.

I highly suggest that you use some form of dust collection to keep the build up from wedging the shims. MDF is particularly a problem because of the quantity of fine dust that is generated.

Also, whenever I change the blade or take it out for cleaning I take the time to inspect the area to ensure that everything is working fine and that no build up is threatening the shims.

I think that the original shims are particularly damaged at the end of travel of the lift mechanism. Be careful when approaching these limits.

It would be great if you find something that helped you greatly I would love to hear about it.

If you got here directly and don’t know where to get the shims: I sell the shims on the right here on my website, both a full set and just the angled ones.

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Information regarding BT3000 Shims for reference

A good tear down video of a BT3100 which is very similar to the BT3000 except that it uses the thicker black shims.

I sell the shims on the right here on my website, both a full set and just the angled ones.

This picture shows the difference between new BT3100 shims on the left and old BT3000 shim on the right. They are not interchangeable. You can upgrade the saw to use the newer shims but you would have to find a replacement part for the guide holder (0181010110). I have heard there is mixed results with this approach.

I will make a video one of these days.

Thanks,

Tim

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Lincoln logs for my Grandson!

I embarked on a seemingly endless task of making Lincoln Logs using a guide from Pocket83 (hosted by www.Ibuldit.ca).  Pocket83 suggested using an extremely thin kerf blade to cut the #2 pine into boards that were 10 ½” wide.  I cut 9 boards from each 8’ board.  I routed the dados for all the notches in the boards.  I fashioned logs from each board and then rounded them over resulting in 4-notch logs.  Some stayed this length, and some were cut into 3-notch, 2-notch, and single-notch logs.  Many small remnants remained that I glued together for the purpose of fencing, borders or whatever one imagines. Pocket83 even has a great guide for making gable end pieces in such a way as to be modular.

 

Then it was time to stain nearly 500 pieces of Lincoln Logs!  They turned out great!  If I had to do it over again, I might thin the stain a little so they wouldn’t turn out so dark. Take a look at the pictures below to see how I created a unique Lincoln Log set for my grandson.



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Woodworking projects

In the last month I’ve created an original configuration Rhoma puzzle from juniper along with 3 alder bases and started building a wooden base for a jointer I picked up on Craigslist.

The one item that has me the most excited is working on the jointer base. The metal base is just too big to scoot next to my wife’s car. The wooden one, while narrower, will still have adequate lateral stability to stay upright.  Pictures below are just the beginning of the cart/case. As I build it, I see that my plans need to be adjusted. Hopefully I can get the project finished up shortly!

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Home Depot job buckets lids

I ran into an interesting situation regarding those job buckets at Home Depot. I have been re-engineering the way I do dust separation/collection from my equipment.

I want the vacuum motor directly coupled to the orange bucket instead of how the first picture  demonstrates.  Previously, the shop vac attached to one port and the tool attached to another. The inefficiencies arose quickly because of the additional hose needed to connect them together.  If I stack the shop vac on top of the separator and dust bin, I increase the suction and get more efficient particulate collection (see second picture).

 

The last two pictures depict the old and new lids, respectively. The grooved, old lid nestles the bucket bottom into an airtight connection whereas the new lid does not. For my application the new lid is nearly worthless!

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Maple quarters from rounds

I got my hands on some maple this weekend! The maple tree was likely three or four feet in diameter, cut into about 12”-18” rounds and then quartered.  I spray painted the end grain and then made boards 1¼” thick.

Note: Spray paint is probably not the best sealant to use; it might even be the worst! This was Rust-Oleum brand, so I might have lucked out since it is oil based. The next best option might be garage floor sealer. What are your thoughts?

 

 

#hallcastlepuzzles #woodworking #puzzles #brainteaser

 

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Finished puzzles in elm and standing cedar

This weekend I had the opportunity to create two puzzles with wood I haven’t used yet. The elm was quite challenging as stress was released as I cut the wood. The grain pattern tends to pinch the blade when making sticks or it wants to veer off away from the blade. I overcame this tendency by cutting shorter sticks. The standing cedar was even more stress ridden. I’ve had it drying in 1 1/4″ boards about 4 inches wide and about 1′ long for a year.  When I first planed them they immediately bowed. Thankfully, the small pieces that I ended up using did not exhibit any twisting or bowing; a good portent for the fruit woods!

 

Notice the stark difference between sanded and finished puzzles. I always find it very rewarding to see!